Five of my favourite Karate related places in Okinawa

On my first trip to Okinawa in October 2012 my sensei took us on a long (when i say long, i mean almost an entire day) walk around Naha and Tomari to Karate related places. 

I had no idea how much this would influence my future. 

I remember hearing the story about the families in the Fukushuen Chinese gardens, sharing their fighting arts with the locals. Seeing Miyagi Chojun and Kanryo Higashionna's memorial in Matsuyama Park and finding Kosaku Matsumora's Memorial in the playground in Tomari. 

It was all so big and exciting and literally brought these stories and Karate to life for me. 
I was standing right where they had been, years ago. 

Little did my sensei or I realise that five years later it would have turned into such a quest, for the both of us.  

So having now found around 30 of the karate places in Okinawa, here i have chosen my favourite 5: 

1- Matsumora Kosaku's Secret Hiding Place

Kicking it off at number 1 is the secret hideout of Matsumora Kosaku. We discovered that this one existed in 2012 and have been searching for it ever since. 

Not many people know where it is, or will share the location anyway! 

We found it just a couple of months ago, so essentially had almost a five year search for this one. 

It's my favourite because of the journey to finding it, but also the beauty of the location. 

It is where Bushi Matsumora retreated to after an altercation with a Japanese satsuma warrior.
The story says that he used just a towel to disarm the enemy of his sword, having done this (and lost a finger in the process) he had to escape and dissapeared into the hills of Nago for safety.  
According to my sensei (who is a direct student of Nagamine Shoshin Sensei) he stayed there for over 10 years.
The local villagers admired what he had done and so kept his location a secret.

After it was safe and he returned to Naha the people of Nago erected the pillar at the location of his former hideaway house.
the pillar was moved to the opposite side of the road on the 24th February 1980 and once a year the local people clean the site.

Probably in the remotest location on Okinawa that i have been to, and maybe even the most beautiful too. 

We could not have done this without the help of my Japanese language sensei and a Dojo Kohai. 

It really was a very good hiding place. 

2- The 'Chanan' Cave

With a variety of names including the Chinto Cave, Channan Cave, Annan Cave and simply Old Cave, there seems to be an interesting history mystery to this one.

I’ll go with the stories I've heard so far while trying to stay impartial.

According to Okinawan legend this is the cave in Tomari where a shipwrecked man from China took refuge. They say he was named ‘Anan’ or ‘Chanan’ and he began teaching people his art of fighting. People would visit his cave to learn from him, supposedly the Chinto Kata came from him (and possibly the Pinan kata too).

I love this one because it was the first place i found by myself when i just arrived here. it took me about three attempts to find it, i was so excited when i did.

Then just recently did we go back and rediscover that there is SO much more than meets the eye with this one.

3- The Memorial for Kyan Chotoku

Kyan Chotoku (1870-1945) studied under Sokon Matsumura Sensei and was known for being small, slim and not in the best of health but also having poor eyesight which is probably why he had the nickname ‘chan migwa’ (small eyed boy).

Kyan participated in the 1936 meeting of Okinawan Masters where it was decided that the ‘art’ that had many different names, should be called ‘Karate’ meaning empty hands. This is the reason why now October 25th is ‘Karate Day’ in Okinawa and is celebrated by a whole host of events around the island.

Kyan’s memorial is based next to the Hija river (where he supposedly used to live).

I love this one because it was one of the hardest to find by ourselves, we knew it was near the Hija river and in a car park.

That was it.

We tried a couple of times and failed, now knowing we were way off area wise.

Then, Sensei and I used a bike and went up there searching together one afternoon, we walked around a lot of Kadena looking for it.

Then just as we were giving up we stumbled upon it.

Most definately a happy end to that day.

It's also along this river that i saw my first ever real life wild snake (Nishike Hebi) and discovered Yara Castle Ruins by mistake!

4-Matsumora Kosaku Roadside Memorial 

I didn't know that this one existed until just earlier this year. It seems silly as it has been under my nose the entire time that i have been here. 

Literally less than a ten minute walk from the Dojo Bar (where i spend a LOT of my time). 

I think that this one is super cool because it has a almost 3D aspect to it, with Matsumora doing the shuto uke. 

It also now makes Kosaku Matsumora the Bushi with the most Memorials and Site Markers dedicated to him in Okinawa (that we have found). 

It's very cool as he is a big influence in the Matsubayashi Ryu linage and it seems he also had a profound influence on the people of Okinawa. 

So much so that they wanted to remember him, with not just one memorial but three hence i think they also wanted us to remember him too. 

5- Shinjo Heitaro Sensei's Memorial 

Matsuda Sensei is my Sanshin Teacher. 

Shinjo Heitaro Sensei is his teacher. 

Shinjo Heitaro was taught by Kyan Chotoku. 

The first time that i saw this one was with James and Chris when we went for a walk around cape Zanpa. We took the long, scenic route. 

I then took Steve Sensei back along the same scenic route when we went to see it together. Sorry about that! 

Matsuda Sensei wrote the song that is inscribed on the back of it. 

(I'm saying it's a song, because he sang it to me last time i asked about it, but he can turn literally anything into a song, so i can't be sure)

I love this one because of the beauty of it's location, based on the edge of the Zanpa cliffs the views surrounding this one are stunning. 
Also, speaking about him gives Matsuda sensei sparkly eyes. To have someone speak about you with such admiration must have made him a great sensei. 

Plus, if i go to see this, then usually i get to see Habu sensei too and that always makes me happy. 

10 things I wish someone had told me when I first arrived in Okinawa

So, here i am. Starting what will be my final year in Okinawa.

A time where there is a lot of reflection happening and thinking about what i would do if i was given the chance to start all over again. 

Would i change anything? 

On first thought, yes. Lots of things. 

But when i really think about it, No, of course i wouldn't. 

This has been the best thing that has ever happened to me. The good, the bad and everything in between has made me who i am now. 

I like that. 

It makes me special. ;) 

Nevertheless, here are a few things i wish someone had told me when i first arrived in Okinawa to live here and things weren't so great  perfect easy as they are now...

1- You Will Be Okay.
You feel like Nemo when he is lost in the great big ocean. Yes, there are people who are around, but this is your journey and right now you're on your own. 

It's overwhelming and stressful and scary, but also so exciting. You almost feel like you are in a surreal dream world, half expecting to wake up in your bed, back in your home country living a boring 9-5 life. 

You are a tiny tiny fish in a very big ocean, both in the Karate world and the actual world. 

This will pass and you will settle and realise its happening and it's pretty incredible. for now though, go with it because this is the time you will either sink or swim. Lean on those close to you because whether you realise it or not, you need them. 

Others have been there and done it before you and they made it. 

You will too. 

Soon you will find yourself adapting and growing and embracing it, but until then, stick with it, don't give up and know that it will all be okay.

2- Try To Eat The Food.
It is good, I promise.
I know it can be hard. I'm not the most adventurous when it comes to food, but give it a try.
New smells, new textures, new tastes. 

Along with the entire life overhaul and emotional and physical stress you will no doubt be experiencing with the karate training and language and cultural barriers, you have to find a way to sustain yourself. Living solely on melon pan and pineapple, as i learnt the hard way, is not a good idea. 

Try the new foods and explore the farmers markets. Buy a rice cooker and do it yourself. I've accidentally eaten barley instead of oats, fish that i thought was meat and so much more in between. You will discover things that no matter how much you try, will never like,  but will also find things you fall in love with and will end up eating everyday. 

The biggest thing to remember here is not to try and maintain a diet that tries to be similar to that of where you came from. It's near on impossible and while here and living and training here, you need to eat the food that the locals eat to stay healthy, so that you do too.

3- Get Some Transport.
Proper transport is a game changer. 

A big one.

The first year i was here, i used a bicycle. 

Yes it got me locally to where I needed to be, but exploring wasn't really an option. With the Okinawa terrain and the time you had made it to where you wanted to explore, you were either exhausted or had no time before you had to head back. 

A whole new world was opened up for me when I got Melvin my bike. Besides being able to train more because I can reach both the dojo's, i can spend my free time actually exploring the island and getting lost to find the coolest things. 

The downside of this is rainy season making things dangerous and slippery while giving you a lot of wet clothes to wash, and taxi drivers who keep you on your toes with their unpredictable and at times manic driving. 

It's so worth it though and it will make your time and your world here so much bigger.

4- Ask For Help.
Everyone needs it. 

From finding the milk in the supermarket to just needing a hug and someone that has been there and done it before. 

From finding a place to reading kanji and learning the karate- basically, most things that you learnt as a child in your home country and did there becomes ten times harder and more complicated here. 

At least to begin with anyway. 

People will get tired of you asking them so try and find a few people who will help you. 

It's not so hard on a island of happy friendly people who will usually always help you above and beyond what you need. 

You end up becoming very good at reading body language, copying your sensei and senpai and playing what i like to think of as one big game of charades (along with drawing lots of diagrams and stick people to make yourself understood).  

Then one day, you'll find you can do it all by yourself, that's pretty cool too. 

Remember, if you can do it here, you can do it anywhere.

5- Train As Much As You Can.
But be sure to rest too.
With the training, the exploring, and the excitement of it all, there will come a time when you have done too much, way too fast and will either get sick (in my case the flu) or exhausted and realise that you need to slow it down and become the tortoise and not the hare. 

Going from training a few times a week at home, to everyday here? Add in a few early morning work outs? Why not. Add in exploring and swimming? Why not.
It's incredible and I don't regret it at all, but to stick it out on a long term basis you will need to slow it down at some point. 

That's cool too because then you will start using what they call 'Okinawa time' the island vibe will rub off on you and you will feel have finished the honeymoon phase (if you can call it that) and realise what real everyday life on the island is like. 

That's also the dangerous point as it's around this time that you just might realise that if you could, you would stay here forever. 

6- Keep In Touch With Family And Friends.
They're important. Being in Okinawa is like being in a bubble. 

You're busy, they're busy and there are big time differences and so many things they wont understand, but make the effort because at the end of the day it will always be where you came from and always where you can go back to (in most cases).

The reason that i am here and this all happened in the first place is because my friends and family made me believe that yes, even I, the quiet shy, ordinary one that in my own head was destined to live a boring life not really doing what makes me happy, because that is what society wants us to do, can. Why can't i be the one that takes a different path and tries something incredible? 

I did, with the support and guidance of some amazing people. All of whom have pulled me through the tough times here, when honestly they are the only people that i felt really comfortable enough to be open and my real self to. 

By no means has my time, or will your time on Okinawa completely be a walk in the park. 

It's hard, you won't fit in. You won't understand, a lot of the time. You will feel like an alien. 

Everyone will change, it's a natural progression in life, but those that are meant to will be there and stay in your life, but remember you have to make an effort too. 

7- Say Yes.
Say yes to everything and everyone, if you can. 

Take the chances to help out with things. By saying yes I've found myself part of karate masters' portrait projects, doing karate demo's on Christmas day in front of 200 Singaporean tourists, seeing how they make traditional Okinawan sweets and Awamori, snorkelling in the ocean on a sunny Wednesday morning, training with the highest ranking lady sensei in Okinawa, taking part in and winning and losing competitions, Mikan picking in the mountains of Wakayama and and visiting Taiwan to practice Kung Fu. 

Some pretty incredible memories.

All from realising you might never get this time again. 

Take the chances and do it while you can.

Just say yes. 

8- Set Some Goals.
I came here with the idea of wanting to train with the best karateka in the world and wanting to become better. 

That's very vague though. 

After being here for a few months and realising I'd done that already, what next? 

Now I needed something new to set my sights on. 

Things that can only be done in Okinawa such as getting every single sensei to sign my karate masters portrait book, take part in Okinawa karate competitions, attempt (and fail) to run the Naha marathon, participate in Guinness World Records of Karate- whether successful or  not, every single opportunity here is because someone gave me a chance and i took it. 

You should too. 

9- Study The Language
It opens so many new doors. My first 8 months to a year were without a teacher, biggest mistake ever. But not so much a mistake, just how things worked out for me on my journey. 

If i could do it again, i would get help and find a teacher faster. Easier said than done when you can't speak to anyone yet, I know but go back to number 4 and ask for help. 

By no means can I say what I actually mean and want to say in Japanese, but I can function and have a basic grasp of some things. 

I know more than i did when i came here and progress is progress even when it's slow. 

Honestly though, from making friends to understanding your sensei, to reading the menus and asking for help when lost. It's an important thing to try and learn.
Once the locals see you making an effort, they do too (and you will be surprised and how much English most people here can talk when they try) and between you, you can usually work it out. 

Plus, it's a pretty cool added bonus to be able to speak another language.

10- Write It Down.
It was the whole purpose of my blog, to document my Journey. 

I did a bit, but with big gaps and not enough. 

These are days and experiences and memories made that you will never want to forget and will be able to 'relive' all over again if you document it well. 

You are learning more than you realise (probably hence the permanent tiredness you feel) but try and make just a bit of time with a notebook to write it down. 

It clears your head, and even just a few months of doing it daily down the line, have I realised how much I would have forgotten. 

Being able to go back and read it brings it all back and makes you realise what an incredible life journey this is.

The 'sparkly eye' thing

I have always said to myself that if I could just change one person's life for the better then everything I'm doing and have done will be worth it.

What I've failed to realise is that I've achieved that already in the most spectacular way.

I have changed one life- it's my own.

Hopefully I've influenced a few others along the way and if I haven't done that yet, I haven't stopped trying. My journey is far from finished.

I got to talk with my seven year old nephew today who has recently started karate and was showing me his new karate 'moves'. When he found out that his 'Auntie B' is a black belt he looked at me like I'm something I most definitely am not, he gave me the look that I give to the sensei here who inspire me and make me want to me just like them. I know that look because I am surrounded by people I admire here and I find myself doing it often.

While being here and spending my time with sensei and senpai of such a high level I haven't been able to really appreciate the progress I have made since i came here.
I got a slight glimpse of that tonight when I was talking with Jay. Along with everything else that flashed through my mind, from my first few days here, to all the experiences in between, the good, the bad and just about everything else- I've just become his 'cool Auntie B' but as karate always does, i'll go back to the dojo tomorrow where the sensei and senpai are and realise how much more I still have to do.

I'll never be anything more than a beginner, there's just too much to learn - and I'm realising that that's really cool because it means I'll just keep growing.
Maybe one day, I'll wake up and find myself wondering where all the years and the time went but also realise what an incredible life decision I made because besides absolutely loving it, more lives have changed me than I realised and maybe, just maybe I touched more lives than I imagined possible.

The bigger reason I was talking with family today is because we are welcoming baby Sophie into our tribe, big brother Dave became dad yesterday and I couldn't be happier for him. I'm 5000 miles away on the other side of the world and I'm in love with her already.

Maybe one day she will look at me the way Jay looked at me today, maybe not but either way I hope that in your life you find the thing that gives you your sparkly eyes too.
I hope you find the thing that you will travel around the world for, and when you do, I'll be right there supporting you because I know how worthwhile it is to persue something that you love.
The sparkly eyes are so important.